Ama Dablam Expedition with Island Peak

Nepal Pyramids Trekking & Climbing
Ama Dablam Expedition
At a Glance
  • Duration31 Days
  • Difficulty Level Strenuous ++
  • Places to Visit Everest Region - Ama Dablam
  • Max Altitude 6,812 m/ 22,349 feet
  • Group Size 2-15
  • Starts Kathmandu
  • Ends Kathmandu
  • Activity Climbing
  • Best Season Spring and Autumn

Ama Dablam Expedition with Island Peak Trip Highlights

Here are some of the best highlights of climbing Ama Dablam:

  • Your Ama Dablam Expedition starts with a thrilling flight to Lukla. Flying in and out of this thrilling mountain airport is an adventure in itself, providing awe-inspiring views and an adrenaline rush.
  • This Expedition takes you through the picturesque Khumbu Valley, allowing you to explore its natural beauty and the unique culture of the Sherpas.
  • Also gives you an opportunity to Summit yet another very prominent 6000 meters peak of ISLAND PEAK.
  • Conquer Mt. Ama Dablam, besides being the most technical is one of the most iconic and stunning peaks in the world, known for its distinctive pyramid shape.
  • Climbing Ama Dablam is considered one of the most technically challenging climbs in the Khumbu region, making it a great choice to enjoy the genuine climbing experience.
  • Ama Dablam challenges climbers with rock, ice, and mixed climbing experience, offering climbers an opportunity to master various climbing skills.
  • The base camp, situated at the foot of the mountain, offers stunning views, serenity, and a sense of isolation in the heart of the Himalayas. One of the best night sky views from the Base camp.
  • Reaching the summit of Ama Dablam, @ 6,812 meters (22,349 feet), is a significant accomplishment.
  • From the summit, you can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and ample other neighboring peaks.

Ama Dablam Expedition with Island Peak Climb Trip Overview:

It's an expedition that leaves climbers with lifelong memories and a deep appreciation for the majesty of the Himalayas.

The Ama Dablam Expedition is certainly one of the most daring but interestingly fascinating experiences that one could achieve when it comes to climbing peaks in Nepal. The ascent of Mt. Ama Dablam is done from the South-West ridge with a reasonable level of difficulty. It is indeed the standard set route that was followed by climbers in 1961, also the first ascent of Mt. Ama Dablam.

Ama Dablam (6,812 m/ 22,349 feet.), as it emerges and stands so resolute and strong that it rightly assumes the name ‘The Matterhorn of Nepal’. Additionally, Mt. Ama Dablam is considered one of the most elegant mountains in the region of Everest – judged by its look and its beautiful shape.

Climbing Ama Dablam is unquestionably an epic adventure nowhere to be found which is certainly demanding but very rewarding. It is believed that the honor of climbing Mt. Ama Dablam is more praiseworthy than climbing Everest due to the number of adversity climbers have to shoulder while climbing. However, the scenic view of the world's highest peaks like Mt. Everest, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Lhotse, Mt Cho Oyu, and their neighboring mountains and peaks is incredibly phenomenal.

About Mount Ama Dablam:

Mount Ama Dablam is a majestic mountain that stands at an impressive height of 6,812 meters (22,349 feet). The name "Ama Dablam" translates to "Mother's Necklace" in the local Sherpa language, referring to the mountain's distinctive shape resembling a mother's outstretched arms with a hanging necklace.

Ama Dablam is considered one of the most beautiful and technically challenging mountains in the world. Its steep, icy slopes and exposed ridges make it a popular choice among experienced mountaineers. The mountain's iconic pyramid-like structure, flanked by sharp ridges and hanging glaciers, has made it an attractive subject for photographers and a coveted climb for adventure enthusiasts.

The first ascent of Ama Dablam took place in 1961 by a team led by Mike Gill and Wally Romanes, who reached the summit via the Southwest Ridge. Since then, numerous climbers have attempted to conquer this peak, which requires technical skills such as ice climbing, rock climbing, and the use of fixed ropes.

Ama Dablam is located close to Mount Everest and serves as an excellent acclimatization climb for those planning to ascend to the world's highest peak. Many climbers choose to include Ama Dablam in their itinerary as a preparatory climb before attempting Everest.

Ama Dablam offers breathtaking views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Makalu. Climbing Ama Dablam requires advanced mountaineering skills, and it is recommended to undertake the expedition with an experienced guide or through a reputable mountaineering company.

The best time to climb Ama Dablam is during the pre-monsoon season in spring (April-May) and the post-monsoon season in autumn (September-October), when the weather and climbing conditions are generally more favorable.

Ama Dablam Expedition Difficulty:

Ama Dablam, the gorgeous Matterhorn-shaped mountain is located to the South of Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse. To the southwest face of the mountain is an overhanging glacier, the “Dablam” which is interpreted as the “sacred ornament box worn by the Sherpa ladies”. Don’t be fooled by its beauty because climbing Mt. Ama Dablam requires climbing experience as it is technically pretty demanding to cruise through steep vertical ice climbing, rock face climbing, and snow climbing.

Climbing Strategy:

This classic 31-day Ama Dablam expedition starts with spiritual sightseeing in the Capital city of Kathmandu. Soon we fly to Lukla, the most thrilling airstrip in the world. Shortly after that, we will start our adventure through the legendary Everest trail of Dudh Koshi. As we cruise through the Khumbu Valley via ample traditional Sherpa villages we get to the Iconic Everest Base Camp. After EBC we descend back to the settlement of Dingboche and summit the prominent ISLAND PEAK which is 6,189m / 20,305 feet.

After conquering Island Peak we head out to the BASECAMP of Amadablam at (4600 m / 15092 feet) – one of the most picturesque base camps in the country. At the base camp, for acclimatization, we spent ample blissful time with side excursions, games, and climbing clinical courses.

On clear day weather, the view is extraordinarily impressive and gives you a heavenly presence. Camping at such a divine place and enjoying the camping food is certainly one of the most beautiful experiences. This is the reason why the Ama Dablam Base camp trek is getting quite popular these days.

Progressively we ascent to Camp 1 (5700 m / 18,800 feet) which is considered moderate and easygoing. From Camp 2 (5950 m / 19,521 feet) and onwards is where lies the real climbing challenge. Advancing to Camp 2 is where you will encounter the infamous YELLOW TOWER. It is firmly advised to have some prior rock or ice climbing experience before anyone signs up for the Ama Dablam expedition.

From Camp 2 and further to Camp 3 (6200 m / 20,341 feet) the increase in challenge and the risk of adversity gets higher where you will cross yet another infamous MUSHROOM RIDGE. Finally, we attack the summit and then get back to camp 2 – things might change under the circumstances.

Outline Itinerary

  • Day 01:Arrive to Kathmandu (1400 m / 4,593 feet)
  • Day 02:Briefing, Preparation and Drive to Manthali (474m / 1,555 feet)
  • Day 03:Fly to Lukla Airport (2840 m / 9317 feet) and trek to Phakding (2610 m / 8,562 feet)
  • Day 4-05:Trek to Namche Bazaar (3450 m / 11,318 feet) + REST DAY - ACCLIMATIZATION
  • Day 06:Trek to Phortse Village (3810 m / 12,500 feet)
  • Day 07:Trek to Dingboche (4350 m/14271 feet)
  • Day 08:REST DAY @ Dingboche and ACCLIMATIZATOIN HIKE
  • Day 09:Trek to Lobuche (4910 m/16,108 feet)
  • Day 10:Trek to Gorak Shep (5,164 m /16,942 feet) trek to Everest base camp (Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner)
  • Day 11:Morning excursion to Kala Patthar (5,545 m / 18,192 feet) and trek back to Dingboche.
  • Day 12:Rest Day at Dingboche or Trek to Chhukung (4730m / 15,518 feet)
  • Day 13:Trek to Island Peak Base camp (5,000 m/16,404 feet)
  • Day 14:Rest Day + Clinical course conducted by the Climbing Sherpa.
  • Day 15:Mid night wake up and set off for Summit (6,189 m / 20,305 feet)
  • Day 16:Extra day in case of any weather circumstances.
  • Day 17:Trek to Pangboche (3,930 m / 12,893 feet)
  • Day 18:Trek to Amadablam Base Camp (4600 m / 15,091 feet)
  • Day 19 - 20:Further Acclimatization - Base Camp Ritual (puja) and Clinical Climbing Course
  • Day 21 - 25:Climbing Period – (Basecamp to Summit - 6,812 m/ 22,349 feet) and back to Base Camp
  • Day 26 - 27:Contingency days - for adapting to unforeseen circumstances
  • Day 28:Trek to Namche Bazaar (3450 m / 11,318 feet)
  • Day 29:Trek to Lukla (2840m / 9317 feet)
  • Day 30:Mountain Flight to KATHMANDU or MANTHALI AIRPORT
  • Day 31:Departure Day - Transfer to International Airpor

Ama Dablam Expedition with Island Peak Detailed Itinerary

                                           

                                                From Lukla airport, the final destination can be either Kathmandu or Manthali Airport, depending on the peak or off-season. Nonetheless, we will have a Sensational flight back. 

                                                Flying out of Lukla Airport is a divine experience that captures the awe-inspiring beauty of the Himalayas. As your small aircraft takes to the sky, you're immediately surrounded by a panoramic masterpiece of nature. Towering peaks, including the legendary Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam, seem to reach out and touch the heavens. 

                                                The rugged landscapes, deep gorges, and remote villages pass beneath you like a living tapestry of Nepal's highlands. The thrill of the takeoff is matched only by the breathtaking scenery that unfolds before your eyes, leaving a permanent imprint of the Himalayan splendor on your soul. 

                                                • Flying out of Lukla is not just a departure; it's a final gift, a reminder of this region's unparalleled beauty.

                                                However, in the peak season time, all Lukla Flights are Diverted to Manthali Airport at Ramechhap District which is 132 km away from Kathmandu. If we fly to Manthali Airport transportation in a PRIVATE VEHICLE will be provided to transfer you to Kathmandu Hotel. 

                                                This Drive from Manthali to Kathmandu will take approximately 4/5 hours. 

                                                Highlights:

                                                • Morning flight to Kathmandu or Manthali.
                                                • Scenic Drive to Kathmandu, if flights are diverted to Manthali Airport.
                                                • Explore the Capital City of Kathmandu as per your requirements.

                                                    AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION DETAIL ITINERARY:

                                                    Please keep in mind that the provided Ama Dablam Expedition Detail itinerary serves as a general guideline only. While we make every effort to follow this plan, trekking in the Himalayas can be influenced by varied factors like weather, trail conditions, and the health and acclimatization of the group. Our experienced guides prioritize your safety and will make necessary adjustments as needed. This might involve changes in the daily schedule or rest days for better acclimatization. Your trekking experience is our top priority, and we're committed to providing you with the best adventure while ensuring your well-being. Thank you for your understanding and flexibility.

                                                    Flight Delay/Cancellation in Kathmandu and Lukla:

                                                    The unpredictability of Flights flying to and from Lukla Airport, the gateway to Mount Everest, and the world’s most electrifying airport is pretty evident from its history of delays and cancellations. Diverse factors lead to the situation of cancellation including the weather, technical issues, poor visibility, etc. In such conditions, Nepal Pyramids will charter a helicopter to make certain that you don’t miss your trip or your international flight. But again under these circumstances, the possibility of flying a helicopter depends on the Nepal Civil Aviation flying rules.

                                                    Travelers are to pay the cost of the chartered helicopter which is payable through cash, traveler’s cheques, or credit cards (Visa and Master Cards only). Travelers will be provided with a receipt upon payment so that they may claim the amount from their travel insurance. The cost per person is governed by the number of people taking this facility.

                                                    Why an extra night in Kathmandu???

                                                    After the trip, travelers have one additional leisure day in Kathmandu, the living heritage city, which in reality is a contingency day in the case of Lukla - Kathmandu flight cancellation under certain circumstances. This certainly gives anyone more of a chance to explore Kathmandu, the capital, ‘The Shining Pearl of Asia’ with its beautiful temples, monuments, and time-honored legends and history. The city undeniably has so much to offer anyone with a thrilling tour experience. Nepal Pyramids will always be there to assist you with your city exploration.

                                                    What's Included
                                                    • PERMITS: All Essential Permits.
                                                    • CLIMBING PERMITS: Climbing Permit for both Island Peak and Ama Dablam that is issued by NMA.
                                                    • PICKUP AND DROPS: Airport pickup and drop facilities on both Domestic and International flights are included.
                                                    • ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU: Three-star twin bed-sharing hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu on a Bed / Breakfast basis.
                                                    • WELCOME DINNER: Welcome dinner in a typical traditional Nepali restaurant.
                                                    • SIGHTSEEING: Half-day guided city sightseeing to two most sacred World Heritage Sites with a paid entrance fee.
                                                    • TAXES: All Government and Local tax.
                                                    • DOMESTIC FLIGHTS: Domestic flights from Kathmandu / Lukla and Lukla / Kathmandu.
                                                    • EQUIPMENT: Fundamental trekking gear like a sleeping bag with fleece liners, Primaloft jacket, Rain Poncho, Yak-Track, Trekking Poles, etc.
                                                    • CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: Essential climbing equipment.
                                                    • LODGING: Local Tea-house accommodation on a twin-sharing basis – A single supplement is provided on request OVER MINIMAL COST, however, depends solely on the availability.
                                                    • DRINKING WATER: Properly boiled hot water for drinking is provided every evening and morning – so it’s wise to have bottles equivalent to 3 liters or bottles along with a Rehydration Bag (camel bag).
                                                    • GLORIOUS FOOD: Meals (Lunch, dinner, breakfast with hot beverages) during the trek.
                                                    • CAMPING: Best Quality Two-member tent facility and kitchen crew with hot meals will be provided where required.
                                                    • TREK LEADER: An accomplished Trekking Group Leader (Legitimate Guiding License Holder) and assistant guide.
                                                    • CLIMBING GUIDE: Highly qualified CLIMBING SHERPA and his climbing Allowance + Insurance.
                                                    • STAFF INSURANCE & ALLOWANCES: All Ground Staff and their Allowances + their insurance.
                                                    • SAFETY CONCERNS: Oxygen cylinders and an all-inclusive comprehensive medical kit on all trips + Satellite phone.
                                                    • COMPLIMENTARY TAKE AWAY: Take away the Nepal Pyramids duffel bag, T-shirt, Buff (multi-functional head-wear), and trekking Map.
                                                    • CERTIFICATES: Certificate of Climbing Achievements issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association.
                                                    What's Excluded
                                                    • NEPAL VISA: A fee of $50 that is levied on a 30-day Nepali visa.
                                                    • INTERNATIONAL AIRFARE: The cost of all international flights.
                                                    • PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: All personal climbing equipment like down suit, crampon, climbing boots, etc
                                                    • CLIMBING BONUS AND TIPS: Climbing bonus and Tips is entirely a personal matter. Your leader will give you guidelines on these matters. 
                                                    • PERSONAL EXPENSES: All personal expenses that may include Nepalese SIM card, internet, battery charging, hot shower, laundry, fizzy drinks, Alcohol, etc.
                                                    • EMERGENCY: A medical examination of any kind, High Altitude Evacuation over any circumstances, Air Evacuation and Rescues.
                                                    • DONATIONS: Donations of any kind.
                                                    • STAFF TIPPING: Tipping is entirely a personal matter, however, it’s a trekking culture.
                                                    • EXTRA NIGHTS: Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu on early arrival or Late departure.
                                                    • SANCTIONS: Permits or the letter of Authorization that is required for special Filming, big Drones, and Filming Cameras.
                                                    • INSURANCE: All-inclusive Travel or medical insurance is a must.
                                                    • EXTRA PORTER: Over request Extra Porter or Assistant is provided that may include the cost of $25 per day.
                                                    • OPTIONAL TOURS: Optional tours and sightseeing or any activities during free time.
                                                    Essential Trip Information

                                                    A good reason for climbing Ama Dablam:

                                                    To take up climbing Ama Dablam is certainly challenging yourself how much further you can do with your endurance. Despite its difficulty, Ama Dablam has always proved to be the paramount platform for climbers to pursue their climbing dreams further.

                                                    There are several compelling reasons for climbing Ama Dablam:

                                                    • Adventure and Challenge: Ama Dablam is renowned for its technical difficulty, making it an excellent choice for experienced climbers seeking a challenging and adventurous ascent. Conquering the mountain requires a combination of technical skills, physical fitness, and mental resilience, providing a gratifying experience for those seeking to push their limits.
                                                    • Stunning Natural Beauty: Ama Dablam offers breathtaking views. From its summit, climbers are rewarded with panoramic vistas of towering peaks, including Mount Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and other surrounding mountains. The awe-inspiring scenery and pristine wilderness create a memorable and immersive experience for climbers.
                                                    • Preparatory Climb for Everest: Many mountaineers choose to climb Ama Dablam as part of their training and acclimatization for larger objectives like Mount Everest.
                                                    • Personal Achievement and Fulfillment: Scaling a mountain like Ama Dablam can be a life-changing achievement and a source of personal fulfillment. Standing on the summit, overcoming challenges along the way, and witnessing the beauty of the Himalayas can instill a sense of accomplishment, self-discovery, and an appreciation for the power of nature.
                                                    • Photography and Artistic Pursuits: Ama Dablam's iconic pyramid-like structure and stunning surroundings make it a favorite subject for photographers and artists. The mountain's unique shape, with the dramatic Himalayan backdrop, provides ample opportunities for capturing awe-inspiring images and creating artistic interpretations.

                                                    Ama Dablam Expedition with Island Peak FAQs

                                                    • Ama Dablam is located in the Khumbu region of Eastern Nepal, near Mount Everest.

                                                    • Ama Dablam has an elevation of 6,812 meters (22,349 feet).

                                                    • Yes, Ama Dablam is considered a technically challenging climb, primarily due to its steep and exposed sections, ice cliffs, and narrow ridges.

                                                    • The best time to climb Ama Dablam is typically during the spring (April to May) and autumn (September to November) seasons when the weather is generally more stable and favorable.

                                                    • The duration of the climb can vary depending on several factors, including weather conditions, acclimatization, and the climber's experience. On average, it takes about 4 to 6 weeks to climb Ama Dablam.

                                                    • Yes, previous climbing experience is essential for climbing Ama Dablam. It is recommended to have prior high-altitude mountaineering experience and proficiency in using climbing equipment.

                                                    • Yes, a climbing permit is required to climb Ama Dablam. You will need to obtain the permit through a registered trekking agency in Nepal. All peak climbing permits are issued by NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association). Besides the Climbing Permit, Sagarmatha National Park Permit and Pasang Lhamu Municipality Permit are required.

                                                    • The cost of climbing Ama Dablam can vary depending on the services provided by the guiding company. The service can range from Basic climbing to Luxury climbing.

                                                    • Climbing Ama Dablam comes with inherent risks associated with high-altitude mountaineering. The steep terrain, exposure to extreme weather conditions, and technical challenges make it a potentially dangerous undertaking. Proper preparation, experienced guides, and good decision-making are crucial to mitigate risks.

                                                    • It is highly recommended to hire an experienced climbing guide or join a guided expedition to climb Ama Dablam. The technical difficulties and objective hazards make professional guidance invaluable for safety and success.

                                                    • The gear required for climbing Ama Dablam includes mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axes, harnesses, ropes, carabiners, helmets, warm clothing, sleeping bag, cooking equipment, and other essential climbing gear.

                                                      However, besides your personal down suit and boots rest is all provided by Nepal Pyramids.

                                                    • Yes, altitude-related risks such as acute mountain sickness (AMS), high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), and high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) are common on Ama Dablam. Adequate acclimatization and proper ascent profile are crucial to minimize these risks.

                                                    • Technically, it is possible to climb Ama Dablam independently. However, due to the technical difficulties and safety considerations, it is strongly recommended to have prior high-altitude climbing experience or hire professional guides.

                                                    • Compared to Mount Everest, Ama Dablam sees significantly fewer climbers. However, during the peak climbing seasons, there can still be a considerable number of climbers attempting Ama Dablam.

                                                       

                                                    • The success rate of climbing Ama Dablam can vary from year to year and among different climbing teams. On average, the success rate is around 30% to 40%.

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