Ama Dablam Expedition with Lobuche Peak

Nepal Pyramids Trekking & Climbing
Ama Dablam Expedition with Lobuche Peak
At a Glance
  • Duration30 Days
  • Difficulty Level Strenuous ++
  • Places to Visit EBC, Lobuche, Ama Dablam
  • Max Altitude 6,812m/ 22,349ft.
  • Group Size 2-15
  • Starts Lukla
  • Ends Lukla
  • Activity Mountaineering
  • Best Season Spring/Autumn

Ama Dablam Expedition with Lobuche Peak Climb Overview

The Ama Dablam Expedition with Lobuche Peak Climbing is a thrilling Himalayan adventure that is now very trending. This classic trip combines world-class trekking through the legendary Khumbu Valley and technically challenging summit attempts of two Nepalese giants. This fully-supported expedition allows climbers to test their skills on the iconic Ama Dablam, known as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas,” while acclimatizing the scenic trekking peak of Lobuche East.

Furthermore, this guided expedition will take you to the iconic Everest Base Camp. Trekking to EBC is a once-in-a-lifetime dream for many adventurers. Standing at an elevation of 5,360 m/17,585 feet, Everest Base Camp is a truly magical experience. After days of trekking through the Himalayas, you turn a corner and suddenly you are in an alpine glacier close to the famous Khumbu Icefall.

With enormous glaciers and imposing peaks surrounding the rocky base camp, you feel insignificantly small in the heart of the high Himalayas. In the evening with the sunset, Everest’s peak glows in a reddish color which is simply remarkable. The atmosphere makes all the effort to reach Everest Base Camp worthwhile.

Our Ama Dablam Expedition with Lobuche Peak is guided by our experienced team where participants can experience a true Himalayan journey. You will travel through lush valleys and traditional Sherpa villages with unobstructed views of Panoramic mountains. Both thrilling ascents reward climbers with sweeping vistas from Lobuche at 6,119m and the exposed ridges of 6,812m Ama Dablam. Join us on this unforgettable test of endurance at altitude for the adventure of a lifetime.

The mighty Himalayan peaks of Ama Dablam (6,812 m/ 22,349 feet) and Lobuche (6,119m/20,070 feet.) await you. This once-in-a-lifetime chance to summit not one but two Nepalese giants will create memories that last forever. Don’t miss out on this incredible opportunity.

Ama Dablam Expedition with Lobuche Peak Climb Highlights

The key highlight of the Ama Dablam Expedition with Lobuche Peak is conquering the two signature peaks while visiting Everest Base Camp. Below are the key highlights of this epic trip:

  • Thrilling Flight to Lukla: Take a breathtaking flight into the Himalayas landing on the short Lukla airstrip
  • Trek to Legendary Everest Base Camp (EBC): A highlight of the trek, stand in awe at the famous EBC at the foot of Mount Everest
  • Summit Lobuche Peak: Tackle this scenic trekking peak as a part of the acclimatization approach before scaling Ama Dablam.
  • Challenge Yourself on Ama Dablam: Our ultimate goal, climb the dramatic ridges and summits along the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas".
  • Explore the Khumbu Valley: Walk where Himalayan legends like Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay first set off for Everest.
  • Discover the Land of the Sherpas and Climbing Yaks: Meet the friendly Sherpa locals and surefooted yaks that make climbing possible.
  • Visit Ancient Buddhist Monasteries: See centuries-old monasteries and shrines nestled among the Himalayan giants.

Stand at the Top of Lobuche, the Iconic Trekking Peak

Before setting our sights on Ama Dablam, we first summit Lobuche Peak. The height of Lobuche Peak is 6,119m/20,070 feet. An attractive trekking peak near Everest Base Camp, Lobuche offers breathless views of the surrounding Himalayan giants. As part of our Ama Dablam Expedition with Lobuche Peak, you’ll spend several days acclimatizing with an ascent of Lobuche. This gives you the perfect chance to test your strength at altitude while enjoying a summit success under your belt before Ama Dablam. With sweeping panoramas atop Lobuche, each step is worth the effort.

Conquer Ama Dablam, the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas"

Towering above the Imja Valley, the stunning pyramid of Ama Dablam stands as one of Nepal’s most striking peaks. The height of Ama Dablam is 6,812 m/ 22,349 feet. Considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, Ama Dablam translates to "Mother's Necklace" in recognition of its hanging glaciers. Regarded by many as the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas" due to its soaring ridges on each side, Ama Dablam requires top-notch technical skills and mountaineering expertise. Our expedition helps you unlock this Himalayan prize in a safe yet challenging climb.

Who First Climbed Ama Dablam and When?

Ama Dablam was first successfully climbed on March 13th, 1961 by an expedition team consisting of:

  • Mike Gill (New Zealand)
  • Barry Bishop (USA)
  • Mike Ward (UK)
  • Wally Romanes (New Zealand)

So the first ascent of Ama Dablam was achieved by this four-man team led by the New Zealanders Mike Gill and Wally Romanes in March 1961. It marked one of the early successful ascents of a major Himalayan peak at the time.

Outline Itinerary

  • Day 01:Arrival at the Kathmandu Airport (1400 m/4593 feet) and transfer to Hotel
  • Day 02:Drive to Manthali (Ramechhap) (474 m / 1,555 feet) and Overnight Stay
  • Day 03:Fly to Lukla (2840 m/9317 feet) and trek to Phakding (2610 m/8562 feet)
  • Day 4-05:Trek to Namche Bazaar (3450 m/11,318 feet) and ACCLIMATIZATION DAY + EXCURSION
  • Day 05:Trek to Phortse Village (3,810 m / 12,500 feet)
  • Day 7- 08:Trek to Dingboche (4350 m/14271 feet) + REST DAY AND ACCLIMATIZATOIN HIKE
  • Day 09:Trek to Lobuche (4910 m/16,108 feet)
  • Day 10:Trek to Gorak Shep (5,164 m /16,942 feet) trek to Everest base camp (Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner)
  • Day 11:Hike to Kala Patthar (5545 m/18,192 feet) and trek to Lobuche Base Camp (4,950 m/15,059 feet)
  • Day 12:Walk to High Camp (5,400 m/17,712 feet) with climbing clinical course
  • Day 13:Summit Lobuche East (6,119 m/20,070 feet) and back to Base Camp
  • Day 14:Contingency / extra day in case of bad weather or other circumstances.
  • Day 15:Trek to Pangboche (3,930 m/12,893 feet)
  • Day 16:Trek to Amadablam Base Camp (4600 m / 15,091 feet)
  • Day 17 - 18:Further Acclimatization - Base Camp Ritual (puja) and Clinical Climbing Course
  • Day 19 - 23:Climbing Period - Base Camp – Summit (6,812m) – Finish at Basecamp.
  • Day 24 - 26:Contingency days - for adapting to unforeseen circumstances
  • Day 27:Trek to Namche Bazaar (3450 m / 11,318 feet)
  • Day 28:Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,800 m 9,186 feet)
  • Day 29:Fly back to Kathmandu or Manthali - night at Hotel - Farewell Dinner.
  • Day 30:Departure Day - Transfer to International Airpor

Ama Dablam Expedition with Lobuche Peak Detailed Itinerary

                                            What's Included
                                            • PERMITS: All Essential Permits.
                                            • CLIMBING PERMITS: Ama Dablam and Lobuche East Climbing Permit that is issued by NMA.
                                            • PICKUP AND DROPS: Airport pickup and drop facilities on both Domestic and International flights are included.
                                            • ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU: Three-star twin bed-sharing hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu on a Bed / Breakfast basis.
                                            • WELCOME DINNER: Welcome dinner in a typical traditional Nepali restaurant.
                                            • SIGHTSEEING: Half-day guided city sightseeing to two most sacred World Heritage Sites with a paid entrance fee.
                                            • TAXES: All Government and Local tax.
                                            • DOMESTIC FLIGHTS: Domestic flights from Kathmandu / Lukla and Lukla / Kathmandu.
                                            • EQUIPMENT: Fundamental trekking gear like a sleeping bag with fleece liners, Primaloft jacket, Rain Poncho, Yak-Track, Trekking Poles, etc.
                                            • CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: All climbing equipment including climbing boots.
                                            • LODGING: Local Tea-house accommodation on a twin-sharing basis – A single supplement is provided on request OVER MINIMAL COST, however, depends solely on the availability.
                                            • DRINKING WATER: Properly boiled hot water for drinking is provided every evening and morning – so it’s wise to have bottles equivalent to 3 liters or bottles along with a Rehydration Bag (camel bag).
                                            • GLORIOUS FOOD: Meals (Lunch, dinner, breakfast with hot beverages) during the trek.
                                            • CAMPING: Best Quality Two-member tent facility and kitchen crew with hot meals will be provided where required.
                                            • TREK LEADER: An accomplished Trekking Group Leader (Legitimate Guiding License Holder) and assistant guide.
                                            • CLIMBING GUIDE: Highly qualified CLIMBING SHERPA and his climbing Allowance + his Insurance.
                                            • STAFF INSURANCE & ALLOWANCES: All Ground Staff and their Allowances + their insurance.
                                            • SAFETY CONCERNS: Oxygen cylinders and an all-inclusive comprehensive medical kit on all trips + Satellite phone.
                                            • COMPLIMENTARY TAKE AWAY: Take away the Nepal Pyramids duffel bag, T-shirt, Buff (multi-functional head-wear), and trekking Map.
                                            • CERTIFICATES: Certificate of Climbing Achievements issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association.
                                            What's Excluded
                                            • NEPAL VISA: A fee of $50 that is levied on a 30-day Nepali visa.
                                            • INTERNATIONAL AIRFARE: The cost of all international flights.
                                            • CLIMBING BONUS AND TIPS: Climbing bonus and Tips is entirely a personal matter. Your leader will give you guidelines on these matters. 
                                            • PERSONAL EXPENSES: All personal expenses that may include Nepalese SIM card, internet, battery charging, hot shower, laundry, fizzy drinks, Alcohol, etc.
                                            • EMERGENCY: A medical examination of any kind, High Altitude Evacuation over any circumstances, Air Evacuation and Rescues.
                                            • DONATIONS: Donations of any kind.
                                            • STAFF TIPPING: Tipping is entirely a personal matter, however, it’s a trekking culture.
                                            • EXTRA NIGHTS: Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu on early arrival or Late departure.
                                            • SANCTIONS: Permits or the letter of Authorization that is required for special Filming, big Drones, and Filming Cameras.
                                            • INSURANCE: All-inclusive Travel or medical insurance is a must.
                                            • EXTRA PORTER: Over request Extra Porter or Assistant is provided that may include the cost of $25 per day.
                                            • OPTIONAL TOURS: Optional tours and sightseeing or any activities during free time.
                                            Essential Trip Information

                                            What makes Ama Dablam the most technical and challenging peak?

                                            Ama Dablam is considered one of the most technical and challenging peaks for a few key reasons:

                                            Exposed Climbing Ridge: Ama Dablam is one steep and jagged beast that shoots straight up into the sky like a towering ice castle. Climbing Ama Dablam scrambling narrow, steeply angled ridges that leave climbers fully exposed with vertical drop-offs on either side. This can be a lot of work and surely be both mentally and physically very demanding.

                                            Rock Climbing Section: A part of the standard route to the summit is a technically challenging rock-climbing section. This rock-climbing section falls along a steep, close-to-vertical headwall that leads you to the summit snowfield of Ama Dablam. This portion is entirely a rock face with no ice and demands advanced rock-climbing abilities and gear.

                                            Persistent Rope and Safety Measures: The route to reach the summit of Ama Dablam mountain includes a very narrow, knife-edge ridge with extreme exposure and steep drop-offs. Due to this climbers need to stay clipped into fixed ropes along the entire ridge to prevent any hazards. Setting up these safety ropes as well as placing protection gear like anchors and bolts into the rock to attach them is mandatory.

                                            This always adds extra time and technical challenges to climb this extremely exposed section of the route. The demand for both climbing skills and endurance is very high, mainly due to the need for constant connection to the rope safety system while climbing Ama Dablam.

                                            High Avalanche Risk: Large hanging glaciers are positioned above the upper part of Ama Dablam. This leaves climbers vulnerable to falling chunks of ice and a heightened threat of avalanches. The risk is particularly high during the Spring when it is more common for ice to break off and snow packs to let loose.

                                            Reading the terrain and properly evaluating conditions to avoid these glacial hazards requires technical mountain climbing expertise. Proper timing of summit attempts and vigilance in staying clear of run-out zones becomes critical because of the threat imposed by the massive hanging glaciers covering so much of the peak.

                                            Mount Ama Dablam Climbing Strategy:

                                            The Base Camp for Ama Dablam is typically set up at around 4,570 meters (15,000 feet) on a moraine ridge on the south side of the mountain. This offers good views of the west face. Most expeditions spend a few days here acclimatizing before starting the climb.

                                            Camp I is located at around 5,800 meters (19,000 feet) in the Western Cwm below and east of the dablam. It takes 3-4 hours to reach this camp from Base Camp. This camp has limited room for tents due to the narrowness of the CWM, so it acts more as a stopover point rather than an overnight site.

                                            Camp II, popularly known as "YELLOW TOWER" is situated at around 6,100 meters (20,013 feet) on the northeast ridge in a snow basin below the eastern face of the Ama Dablam. It takes another 3-4 hours to reach this point from Camp I. Camp II offers the last good campsite before the summit bid. Teams rest here to prepare for their summit attempt.

                                            The route from Camp II to the summit leads across the eastern snowfield to gain the southeast ridge, which leads along exposed rocky ridges and walls to the summit mushroom at 6,812 meters (22,349 feet). This leg takes between 10-15 hours roundtrip from Camp II and is extremely strenuous.

                                            Upon achieving the summit, climbers make their way carefully back down to Camp II to rest and recover before returning to Base Camp. The return to Base Camp from Camp II takes two days - stopping again at Camp I along the way.

                                            View from Lobuche Peak:

                                            From Lobuche's summit, you look out over a sea of other mountains, including Ama Dablam, Pumori, and the giant Lhotse and Everest in the background. To the south lies the Khumbu icefall and glacier, covered in a maze of crevasses. The pointed peak of Pumori rises directly across from you. To the north, you take in views all the way to Cho Oyu on the Tibet border.

                                            At your feet sits Lobuche base camp and the route you took to come this far. Having earned the summit, you celebrate with photos and snacks, thrilled to be standing at this Himalayan viewpoint you imagined for so long. After enjoying the views for as long as possible, the thought of the warm teahouse below starts to motivate your descent!

                                            View from Ama Dablam Summit:

                                            The summit of Ama Dablam offers stunning Himalayan views on clear days. The flat top means plenty of space to take in the dramatic scenery all around. To the north, the huge pyramid peak of Makalu, the world's fifth-highest mountain, is visible. To the west, the jagged ridges of the Baruntse range can be seen.

                                            Besides, we see ample 6000 and 7000-meter peaks that create an incredible backdrop. Standing proud at 6,812 meters itself, Ama Dablam provides a front-row view of some true Himalayan giants. Reaching this summit viewpoint is tough but the rewards of such tough climbing are the jaw-dropping vistas that unfold.

                                            Here climbers are lifted into the aerial viewpoint from where they will witness the towering peaks over valleys blanketed in clouds. The sheer drops make climbers feel they can almost reach out and touch the neighboring summit tops. The clear weather days certainly offer treasured moments to enjoy the majesty of the high Himalayas.

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