Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is a popular peak located in the Everest region of Nepal. It stands at an elevation of 6,189 meters (20,305 feet) and offers stunning views of the surrounding Himalayan mountains. The Peak was named "ISLAND PEAK" by a prominent English Mountaineer, Eric Shipton in 1951 during his venture to summit Everest, the world's highest mountain.

Is Island Peak a suitable choice for my first Himalayan climb?

It can be, especially if you have some prior mountaineering experience. However, it's important to be well-prepared physically and mentally and to undergo acclimatization in the region.

What is the cost of an Island Peak climbing expedition?

The cost can vary depending on factors like the trekking agency, the services included, and the group size. On average, you can expect to pay between $2,500 and $5,000 USD.

What are the risks associated with climbing Island Peak?

Risks include altitude sickness, avalanches, crevasses, and extreme weather conditions. Proper acclimatization and following safety guidelines are crucial to mitigate these risks.

Is Island peak difficult? Who can join?

Island peak 6189m / 20,305 feet is no doubt an Alpine PD+ grade peak which is physically challenging and demanding. However, it’s not something unattainable; anyone with reasonable health can accomplish the goal. All we need is a well-managed acclimatization strategy which we deliver - besides Nepal Pyramids itinerary for Island Peak Climbing is so designed that anyone can benefit from ample time for acclimatization which matters most in thin air. Anybody with sensible fitness can join but anyone with personal ailments, ankle problem, heart, lung, or knee problems need to seek the consent of your doctor which is mandatory before you sign up for Island Peak. Little homework is a must.

Do I need a permit to climb Island Peak?

Yes, a climbing permit is required to climb Island Peak. It can be obtained from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) in Kathmandu. In addition to the climbing permit, you also need a Sagarmatha National Park entry permit and Pasang Lahmu Municipality Permit

Can I climb Island Peak solo?

Climbing Island Peak solo is not recommended due to the technical nature of the climb and the risks involved. It is safer and more enjoyable to climb with an experienced guide or as part of a guided expedition.

Do I need climbing experience for Island Peak?

Previous climbing experience unquestionably helps yet no prior experience is required for Island Peak climbing. However, sensible physical fitness is obligatory with lots of physical preparation prior to your arrival in Nepal. Additionally, at Island Peak Base Camp our skilled climbing Sherpa along with your Group leader will demonstrate a practical climbing course that gives you sufficient acquaintances about walking and all the necessary climbing skills. We typically prepare everyone with much awareness before summiting Island Peak.

What equipment’s Nepal Pyramids provide for Island Peak?

Nepal Pyramids provides you with a very warm sleeping bag with fleece liner and wind-stopper duvet jackets with attached hoods. We also provide you with a Nepal Pyramids duffel bag to fit all your gear in, a plastic bag to separate your clean clothes from the dirty ones. To make it hassle-free and less expensive we provide all the climbing gear including a two-member tent, ropes, boots, crampons, ice-axe, etc. HOT BAGS AT ISLAND PEAK BASE CAMP DURING NIGHT TIME.

What kind of food and accommodation are we to expect in the trip?

Family Oriented Lodges which Nepal Pyramids use are at their best offering you a comfortable experience and its typical local environment. It’s basically the extension of their own houses that offers you twin bed sharing room with common toilets. You have variety of choices for the food and so far with Nepal Pyramids absolute contentment prevails in regards to meals and Local Tea-House. At Island Peak base camp our cooks are professional in preparing a variety of food under less-than-ideal conditions. They are the master chefs who out of glacier water, pre-packed food, and frozen vegetables can come up with astonishing delightful food items.

What is the communication facility?

With the progression of technology, the cell phone network is available in almost every place in the Everest region except for a few significant places. Wi-Fi and 4G data are accessible depending on where you are and the network coverage. Whereas at Island Peak base camp we provide satellite phones to make calls during emergencies though not for any personal call.

Is altitude sickness a concern while climbing Island Peak?

Yes, altitude sickness is a concern while climbing Island Peak. Acclimatization is crucial to minimize the risk of altitude-related illnesses. The climbing itinerary includes gradual ascent and rest days to help your body adjust to the increasing altitude.

Do I need to hire a guide or a climbing agency for Island Peak climbing?

It is highly recommended to hire a licensed guide or a reputable climbing agency for Island Peak climbing. They provide necessary assistance, ensure safety, and take care of logistics such as permits, accommodation, and equipment.

When is the best time to climb Island Peak?

The best time to climb Island Peak is during the pre-monsoon (spring) season from March to May and the post-monsoon (autumn) season from September to November. These months offer stable weather conditions and clearer views.

Do I need to have travel Insurance for Island Peak?

It is always very wise to have an all-inclusive travel insurance policy covering all the aspects of your adventure that includes trip delays, cancellation, loss of property, sickness, or air evacuation.

Island Peak Climbing | Imja Tse Climbing

Island Peak Climbing with Everest Base Camp Trip Overview:

Peak climbing in Nepal has so much to offer in comparison to regular alpine trekking. With the number of peaks and varied destinations that Nepal has to offer to travelers, it certainly is the ultimate destination for peak climbers. Island Peak is indeed filled with spectacular scenery and has certainly proved to be an experience not found elsewhere. Island Peak Climbing with Everest Base Camp is an awesome way to experience the thrill of both Trekking and Climbing in Nepal.

Of the 6000-meter Peak Climbing in Nepal, Island Peak surpasses all the other climbing peaks. No wonder it is so popular due to its easy accessibility, spectacular scenery, and technicality. This 20-day Island Peak Expedition is filled with tons of adventure and excitement. It certainly combines the joy of being at the Base of the world's highest mountain and climbing the celebrated Mountain.

This adventurous trip will take you to the spectacular Everest Base Camp which is just a dream of many. It is a personal pilgrimage to stand at its base and realize the aspirations of so many adventurers. Next is the beautiful journey to Island Peak. As the name suggests it is certainly an Island in the middle of the surrounding majestic peaks including the world-renowned peaks like Lhotse, Ama Dablam, etc.

Island peak climbing with Everest Base Camp is designed for people who are ready to go the extra mile to experience the pleasure of adventure. Furthermore, it is for those who are ready to undertake the challenge and test their endurance. This expedition is an excellent choice to experiment with yourself on how far you would go to question your weakness.

NOTE: To make it hassle-free and less expensive we provide all the climbing gears that include a sharing member tent, ropes, boots, Alpine Climbing Harness, Rappel device, crampons, ice-axes, etc.

“It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves” - Edmund Hillary

Key Features:

Scenic Flight: Fly to the most thrilling airport in the world, the Lukla Airport with a remarkable view.
Crossing Hillary Bridge: Crossing the iconic highest Hillary Bridge which is a prominent highlight almost in every Everest movies or documentaries.
Epic Summit Views: Stand at the top of the 6,189m summit of Island Peak for stunning 360-degree Himalayan panoramas.
Iconic Everest Base Camp: Make the legendary trek through the Khumbu Valley to stand at the base of the world's highest peak at Everest Base Camp.
Technical Climbing Challenge: Challenge your mountaineering skills by tackling diverse terrain, and fixed rope ascents.
The Sherpa Culture: Spend time in the traditional villages, and monasteries, and know the way of life of the high-altitude Sherpas and their Buddhist traditions.
Develop your Climbing Skills: Island Peak introduces mountain climbing techniques which are excellent for developing climbing skills.
Walk on the Territory of Yaks: Trek into the Himalayan meadow, a territory of yak, and experience the genuine wilderness.
Camping Experience: Experience camping logistics which is now almost extinct in Nepal and feel the difference.
Sense of Achievement: Earn lifelong bragging rights by conquering the most prominent 6,000m Himalayan Peak.

Island Peak Quick Facts:

Local (official) Name: Imja Tse
Globally Accepted Name: Island Peak, named by Eric Shipton in 1951.
Height: 6,189 meters / 20,305 feet.
Location: Khumbu Region, Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal
Coordinates: 27.9242° N, 86.9373° E
First Climber: 1953 British Expedition Team including Charles Evan, Alf Gregory, Charles Wylie, and Tenzing Norgay
Best Seasons: March-May and September-November
Duration: 16 to 20 days (including acclimatization)
Difficulty Level: Strenuous ++
Permit Required: Peak Climbing Permit, National Park Entry Permit, and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit.

More About Island Peak:

Like an island standing in the middle of the sea of ice is ‘Imja Tse’ or Island Peak. This glorious peak below the lofty Lhotse in the Chhukhung Valley has captured the hearts of ample adventurers. It is solitary but its unique location, and the view make it stand out among the many other mighty Himalayan peaks around it.

The local Sherpa people have called it "Imja Tse" for generations. Imja means 'Middle' and Tse means "Peak or Sit" in Tibetan Sherpa Language. So, Imja Tse literally means ‘Peak or Sitting in the Middle’. Now the route that leads to the base of Island Peak is known as Imja Valley.

In 1951, British explorer Eric Shipton saw Imja Tse while surveying the region after his unsuccessful Everest Expedition. Its appearance reminded him of an island in a frozen sea. Shipton's team named it "Island Peak", and later this name was accepted globally. Though the Sherpas had always revered the peak in their myths, this new English name connected it to the outside world drawing international climbers to scale it.

Since then, Island Peak has become the opening chapter of many prominent mountaineers as their primary foundation. Every year hundreds of climbers write their story into the legends of Island Peak Climbing.

Island Peak’s two different names in Nepali and in English represent two different cultures united by these gorgeous mountains. All majestic mountains including the prominent peaks like Island Peak are the symbols of unity that will always bring people together invoking their passion for adventure.

Island Peak now is the most prominent 6000m peak standing at a height of of 6,189 meters (20,305 feet). It offers an exhilarating climbing experience for adventurers seeking to conquer Himalayan summits.

Trip Summary:

This rewarding 22-day trip starts with flying to the most beautiful airstrip of Lukla. Situated at a height of 2,840 m/9,317 ft. Lukla is certainly one of the most fascinating towns in the Khumbu region. Gradually walking through the ancient trail and Sherpa community settlements with the most amazing view we get to the base of the world's highest mountain.

After the completion of the adventurous trek to Everest base camp (5360 m) and Kala Patthar (5545 m), we head back 1000 m down to Dingboche (4350 m). Consequently, this would be more like a ‘walk high sleep low’ strategy.

The next day we take Imja Valley for Island Peak base camp. A distinguished British Mountaineer, Eric Shipton named 'Island Peak' in 1951 and renamed Imja Tse in 1983. At Island Peak base camp the cook is accountable for all the diverse meals. They are broadly trained regarding hygiene, preparing meal variety, and presentation. They are masters at preparing selections of food under less-than-ideal conditions.

Our accomplished climbing Sherpa will conduct a clinical course on required climbing skills and safety measures. Eventually, we climb to the summit of Island Peak at 6189 m / 20,305 feet which delivers the most breathtaking view.

Island peak expeditions have always served as a preparation arena for mountaineers before scaling any high peaks. This Trip offers anyone with exhilarating adventure experience with its challenges and breathtaking views from the summit. Besides Island Peak, we also organize other fascinating peak climbing in Nepal like Mera Peak climbing, Lobuche East Climbing, Amadablam Expedition, and many more.

Also, look for the Top Seven 6000m Trekking Peaks in Nepal. and Best Trekking Peaks for Beginners in Nepal

Packing List for Island Peak Climbing:

Packing for the Island Peak Climbing is essential to ensure your safety, comfort, and overall enjoyment during the journey. Keep in mind that the packing list may vary depending on the season and personal preferences, but here is a comprehensive list of items to consider:

WHAT WE (NEPAL PYRAMIDS) PROVIDE TO MAKE YOUR TRIP HASSLE-FREE:

Take Away Synthetic Duffel Bag (Water Proof)

Down Sleeping Bag (-21 c)

Silk Liner

PrimaLoft fill Windproof Jackets

Rain Poncho

Yaktrax (Lightweight ice-traction device) - Where necessary.

Trekking Poles

2 Toilet Rolls each

Complementary Tshirt,

Complementary Neck Gaiter (Buff),

Complementary Baseball Hat and Map

Oxygen (in case of Emergency)

Comprehensive Medical Kit with medication and First Aid Supplies

List of Climbing Equipment we provide:

Climbing Harness

Climbing Helmet

Climbing Boots

Carabiners

Belay Device

Quickdraws

Slings and Runners

Climbing Ropes - Dynamic ropes

Helmets

Ascenders and Descenders

Anchors and Snow Bars

Prusik Cord

Two Member Tent

Air Mattress

Kitchen Crew with Hot Meal

Professional Climbing Sherpas and Assitant Guide (Depending on the Group Size)

Clothing and Footwear

What you Need to Bring:

Clothing:

Moisture-wicking base layers (long-sleeved tops and bottoms)
Insulating layers (fleece jacket, down jacket)
Waterproof and windproof outer shell jacket
Waterproof and breathable pants
Trekking pants
T-shirts and lightweight shirts
Warm hat and sun hat

Head and Neck:

Balaclava or scarf for cold weather
Buff or neck gaiter for sun, wind, or cold
Fleece beanie or warm woolen Hat
Sun Hat or Baseball Cap.
Bandana

Hands and Lower Body

Lightweight gloves and warm gloves
Thermal underwear
Underwear and sports bras
Hiking socks and liner socks
Gaiters (optional for snow or rain)

Footwear:

Sturdy and comfortable trekking boots
Camp shoes (e.g., sandals or sneakers)

Gear and Accessories

Accessories:

Backpack (30-40 liters for the day, larger for porters)
Rain Cover for Your Backpack
Sunglasses with UV protection
Reusable Water Bottles (2+ Liters) like Nalgene
Rehydration Bladder (Camel Bag or Platypus)
Water purification tablets or a water filter
Headlamp with extra batteries
Personal FIRST AID KIT
Duct Tape
Toiletries (toilet paper, hand sanitizer, wet wipes, etc.)
Quick-dry towel
Insect repellent
Sunscreen 50 + SPF
lip balm

Gadgets and Supplements

Gadgets:

Compass
Emergency Whistle
Map (physical or digital)
Altimeter Watch or Device.
GPS device or smartphone with GPS capabilities
Headlamp or flashlight with extra batteries
Fully charged mobile phone (with offline maps and emergency numbers saved)
Tripods
Portable charger or power bank
Appropriate Sleeping bag (if you are bringing your own)

Supplements:

Water filters or purification tablets
Protein Bars or Trail Mix.
Multivitamins
Altitude sickness medication like Acetazolamide (if you are going high)
Vitamin C and Zinc Soluble Supplement Tablets.
Electrolyte supplements for hydration
Basic medical supplies (bandages, antiseptic, pain relievers)
Prescription medications
Fire starter (lighter, matches, fire starter kit)
Biodegradable soap
Hand sanitizer
Biodegradable wipes

Optional Items

Other Essentials.

Personal identification
Photo Copies of Passport
Passport-sized photos
Copies of your Insurance
Airline Tickets
Cash (in Nepalese Rupees and US Dollars)
Travel wallet or pouch
Electronics (camera, power bank, charging cables)
Journal and pen

Optional Items:

Binoculars
Books or playing cards
Earplugs (useful in teahouse accommodations)
Ear Pods
Energy snacks and Rehydration drinks
Hiker Pocket Knife
Whistle and multi-tool
Trash Bag
Sewing kit
Travel Pillow
Dry Bag.

It's advisable to pack light and prioritize essential items. The Mera Peak Climbing can be physically demanding and challenging due to high altitudes, so ensure that you are physically prepared and have the appropriate clothing and gear to stay safe and comfortable during the journey.

Important Information

Complimentary Equipment:

During your pre-trip meeting in Kathmandu, we provide you with a complimentary waterproof Duffel Bag, buff (neck gaiter), 2 Toilet Rolls, a Map, and a Baseball Cap. The duffel bag will serve as a means to pack all your necessary trekking supplies for your upcoming adventure.

Your Daypack:

In addition to the duffel bag, it is essential that you have your own daypack with a waterproof cover. This daypack will be used to carry your daily necessities such as cash, important documents, water supplies or rehydration bladder, a camera, toiletries, sunscreen, a notebook, and extra clothing.

The equipment we Provide:

Besides the complimentary equipment, WITHOUT ANY EXTRA COST, we provide you with PrimaLoft wind stopper jackets, a Warm Down Sleeping Bag with liners, a Walking Stick if required, and Yak-Track (mini crampons where required). However, When trekking at altitudes above 4,000 m, it is crucial to have your personal lightweight down jacket and warm fleece Jackets or hoodies.

Drinking Water Supply:

In our commitment to environmental sustainability and responsible trekking practices, we wholeheartedly discourage the use of single-use mineral water bottles along the trekking route. To minimize plastic waste and protect the pristine Himalayan environment, our dedicated staff ensures a constant supply of safe, boiled drinking water throughout your journey. We kindly request that you carry reusable water bottles and rehydration bladder to stay well-hydrated. Together, we can make a positive impact on the delicate ecosystem.

Assigning Porters:

To ensure your comfort and convenience, we assign one porter between two trekkers. The porter will be responsible for carrying the duffel bag throughout the entire trek. It is important to note that the weight of your duffel bag should not exceed 10/11 kg as the weight limitation for porters is 25/30kg max and if you are flying to any high mountain airports in Nepal your overall weight limitation including your duffle + daypack is only 15kg / 33 pounds.

Your Extra Luggage:

For your convenience, you can store all your extra luggage, and suitcases at the hotel SAFETY STORE in Kathmandu. This way, you can travel light and have peace of mind knowing that your belongings are safe and secure.

Tipping Tips:

Tipping is a gesture of appreciation, a heartfelt way to express gratitude for the incredible journey you've embarked upon and the dedication of the remarkable individuals who have been your guiding stars throughout your trek. The practice of tipping, at 10% of the trip cost, is a tradition that allows you to give back, acknowledging the extraordinary efforts of your guides, porters, and the entire team who make your adventure possible. It is a way to honor their dedication, hard work, and the stories they've shared around the campfire, deepening the bonds formed in the heart of the mountains.

Caution at the Airport on Arrival:

Upon arrival, we strongly advise against entrusting your bag to anyone other than our trusted office representatives. Unknown airport porters taking your luggage for a few seconds and claiming for TIPS is a very common incident at the airport. Our team is there to ensure that your belongings remain safe and that you can embark on your adventure with confidence. Your safety and peace of mind are our utmost priority.

We hope this information clarifies the important details regarding your trip. Should you have any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at [email protected]. We want to ensure that you have a safe and enjoyable trekking experience in Nepal.

Detail Information on Flying to Lukla from Different Airports

Nepal Aviation Authority (NAA) has recently introduced new rules regarding Lukla flights. These rules aim to enhance the safety and efficiency of air travel to and from the Lukla airport, which is known for its challenging terrain and weather conditions.

The choice of airport for accessing Lukla is primarily based on different seasons. Manthali is used as an alternative to Lukla during peak seasons when Lukla flights are often disrupted due to weather and congestion, while Kathmandu remains the preferred choice during the off-season for its convenience and more reliable flight schedules.

Trekkers and climbers need to be prepared for potential flight delays and cancellations regardless of the airport they use, as weather conditions in the Everest region can be unpredictable.

1. Lukla Airport (Tenzing-Hillary Airport):

High Altitude and Short Runway: Lukla Airport is situated at a high altitude of approximately 2,845 meters (9,334 feet) and has one of the shortest commercial runways in the world, just 1,729 feet long. This combination of high altitude and a short runway makes it a challenging airport for both takeoff and landing.
Weather Variability: The weather in the Everest region, especially around Lukla, is highly unpredictable, with frequent fog, cloud cover, and high winds. These conditions can lead to frequent flight delays and cancellations.
Limited Infrastructure: Lukla Airport has limited infrastructure, including just one small terminal building and a single runway. This can result in congestion during peak trekking seasons when numerous trekkers and climbers are trying to get to Lukla.

2. Manthali Airport (Ramechhap Airport):

Alternative During Peak Season: Manthali Airport, located in Ramechhap, is often used as an alternative to Lukla during the peak trekking seasons (spring and autumn). The advantage is that it is less congested, and flights are generally more reliable.
Distance from Kathmandu: Manthali Airport is approximately a 4-5 hour drive from Kathmandu. Trekkers are transported by road to Manthali from Kathmandu, and then they take a relatively short flight to Lukla. This helps in alleviating some of the pressure on Lukla Airport.
Reduced Weather Impact: The weather in Manthali is usually more stable than Lukla during peak seasons, making it a preferred alternative when flights from Kathmandu to Lukla are frequently disrupted.

3. Kathmandu Airport:

Alternative During Off-Season: During the off-peak trekking seasons (summer and winter), flights to Lukla from Kathmandu are relatively more reliable due to better weather conditions. In this case, it's more practical to fly directly from Kathmandu to Lukla.
Convenience: Flying from Kathmandu to Lukla is more convenient in terms of time and transportation costs during the off-season when the number of trekkers is significantly lower.

Weight Limitation while Flying to Lukla

The weight limitation for Lukla flights is typically quite strict due to the short runway and high altitude of Lukla Airport, which makes it challenging for aircraft to take off and land. The weight restrictions are in place to ensure the safety of the flight. The specific weight limitations are 15kg or 33 Pounds:

1. Baggage Allowance: Passengers are usually allowed a specific weight limit for their checked baggage, typically between 10 kg to 15 kg (22 to 33 pounds) per person..
2. Hand Luggage: In addition to checked baggage, passengers are typically allowed a small amount of hand luggage, which is usually limited to around 5 kg (11 pounds). This hand luggage should be small and fit under the seat in front of you.
3. Combined Weight: The total combined weight of the luggage is not to exceed 15/16 kg / 33/35 pounds
4. Excess Baggage: If you exceed the weight limitations, you may be required to pay extra fees for excess baggage or leave some items behind. The charges for excess baggage can vary with the airlines you choose.

Traveling light is strongly recommended when flying to Lukla. Given the weight limitations and potential flight disruptions due to weather conditions, it's best to pack only the essentials and keep your baggage within the specified limits to avoid any inconveniences or additional costs.

Lukla Flight Delays And Cancellations

Flight delays and cancellations to and from Lukla Airport are not uncommon and are often due to a combination of factors related to the airport's unique location, weather conditions, and the limitations of the aircraft used for these flights.

1. Weather Conditions:

Unpredictable Weather: Lukla Airport, is highly vulnerable to rapidly changing weather conditions. The airport's mountainous terrain means it's often shrouded in fog, cloud cover, and receives high winds, making flying conditions challenging.
Low Visibility: Low visibility due to fog or cloud cover can lead to flight delays or cancellations, as pilots require clear visibility to navigate the treacherous mountainous terrain.

2. Limited Instrumentation:

Lukla Airport lacks advanced navigation and landing systems. The absence of instrument landing systems and radar technology means flights often rely on visual flight rules (VFR), which require good weather conditions to operate safely.

3. Airport Congestion:

During peak trekking seasons, Lukla Airport experiences congestion as numerous trekkers, climbers, and supplies try to access the region. The limited infrastructure and parking space can lead to delays.

4. Safety Considerations:

Safety is a top priority for airlines operating in this region. If weather conditions are unfavorable or if there are safety concerns, airlines may choose to delay or cancel flights to ensure the well-being of passengers and crew.

5. Limited Window for Flights:

Lukla flights typically operate in the early morning when the weather is relatively stable. This limited window means there's less flexibility to reschedule flights if conditions deteriorate.

6. Seasonal Variations:

Flight disruptions can vary with the seasons. Peak trekking seasons (spring and autumn) are more susceptible to delays due to higher passenger volumes and less favorable weather patterns. Off-peak seasons (summer and winter) may see fewer disruptions.

Given these challenges, trekkers and travelers to the Everest region should be prepared for the possibility of flight delays and cancellations.