Himlung Himal Expedition Route Profile:
For proper acclimatization and a successful summit attempt, the Himlung Himal Expedition requires at least a month. Himlung Himal Expedition starts with a scenic drive from Kathmandu to Dharapani. Once we enter the restricted area of Nar-Phu Valley, the gateway to Himlung Himal, we cruise through diverse landscapes and get to Himlung Base Camp situated at 4900 meters / 16,076 feet.
At the base camp, you will have an already set up camp featuring a two-member tent, kitchen, dining, toilet, etc. Once again there will be an overall briefing from your team leader and the climbing guides on the planning of climbing route strategy. Before we start our climb to Camp I, a short Ceremonial PUJA will be organized to take the blessing from the mountain deity.
Climbing Himlung Himal has three (3) strategic camps from the base camp as Camp I, Camp II, and Camp III.
Base Camp to Camp I - (5,450 meters / 17,880 feet):
Our climbing strategy for Himlung Himal is prioritized to balance safety, acclimatization, and summit success. Under weather conditions and climbers' performances, there shall be adjustments with flexibility that can shape the route planning.
From the Base Camp, our Rotation Climb begins for acclimatization and mountain familiarization process. The rotation cycles between Base Camp, Camp 1 (5,450m), and Camp 2 (6,000m) will be conducted a few times. This rotation cycle is very crucial for several reasons:
- Acclimatization: It allows your body to adapt to the environment with decreased oxygen levels.
- Route Familiarization: This will help the climbers to become familiar with the terrain and challenges ahead.
- Equipment Distribution: During this period we can transfer our supplies to the higher camps.
- Climber Performance: It also helps to examine the climbers' performance for further adjustments to make for a successful ascent.
We will try our best to summit Himlung Himal from Camp 2 depending on the overall risk assessments. This approach reduces and minimizes the risk of exposure to extreme altitude, harsh weather conditions, and other uncertain factors.
However, we will definitely have Camp 3 (6,350m) as our potential alternative if it’s a must for safety and to foster summit success. The use of Camp 3 is quite technical and demanding our lead climbing guide will first assess the conditions, wind speed, weather forecast, and team performance and will decide on setting up Camp 3.
Our primary goal while climbing Himlung Himal is to maximize safety and 100% summit success. During this rotation session, the climbers will encounter moraines, ice valleys, glaciers, etc.
Camp I to Camp II - (6,000 meters / 19,685 feet):
From Base Camp to Camp I and Camp II, we will still be maintaining a rotation cycle. However, from Camp 1 to Camp 2 on Himlung Himal presents a challenging terrain. There are sections that involves walking across rocky slopes with loose rock and unstable footing. Careful navigation is required where your assisting climbing Sherpas will support you.
The difficulty of this section is largely influenced by the time of the year we are climbing Himlung Himal. Late autumn offers more stable conditions compared to spring. This part of the climb is considered the most technically demanding where safety becomes a paramount concern.
However, our professional guides will scout you to a safe location where we will establish our Camp 2. Though Camp 2 has a very low chance of avalanche hazards yet thorough risk assessment is essential for safety.
Camp II to Camp III - (6,350 meters / 20,833 feet):
As said setting up Camp 3 is optional, an alternative that will be set up considering various factors from weather to group performances. The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 can be a testing venture yet manageable ascent. The climb involves a steep incline over a mixed terrain of snow and ice that will require the use of all climbing equipment including fixed and main ropes.
Though it's only 350 meters of ascent from Camp 2, it demands intensity and focus. The final section of Camp 3 involves climbing the narrow ridge but offers the most brilliant view.
While climbing this section your lead guide and your assistant climbing guides will ask you to be vigilant of potential rock falls. The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is about 3 -4 hours and affords you ample time to acclimatize and prepare for the next day summit push. Camp 3 will give you the most overwhelming panoramic view which is simply divine.
Summit Push – (7,126 meters / 23,379 feet):
The summit push to Himlung Himal will be our big day, our mission. This 775-meter ascent to the summit from Camp 3 is certainly very challenging but at the same time is very rewarding. The satisfaction you get at the top of Himlung Himal can’t be compared with anything else.
The summit push time will be decided by your lead climbing guide. Over the time allocated by your lead guide, there will be a final equipment inspection before we head out for the summit. Since our Himlung Himal Expedition is fully supported with a 1:1 ratio of Climbing Sherpas for each climber you will be well looked after.
When you eventually reach the top of the Himlung you will be rewarded with the most blissful view. Besides, the cheerfulness of achieving success will make all your efforts worthwhile.
After the summit, we will either get back to Camp 3 or further down to Camp 2 and the next day we will get back down to Base Camp.
What are the Permits Required for Himlung Himal Expedition?
There are basically three (3) essential Permits that are mandatory to climb Himlung Himal.
These essential PERMITS for Himlung Himal Expedition are:
- Himlung Himal Climbing Authorization Permit: This peak climbing permit is issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). The cost of a Himlung Himal Climbing Permit in Spring (March-May) is USD 500 per person, Autumn (September-November) is USD 250 per person, and Summer (June-August) is USD 125 per person.
- Annapurna Conservation Area Project Permit (ACAP).
- Manaslu Conservation Area Project Permit (MCAP).
Both ACAP and MACP are issued by the Nepal Tourism Board located either in Kathmandu or Pokhara. However, any peak climbing is to be done by being affiliated with the local company in Nepal which is mandatory.
When is the best time to climb Himlung Himal?
When it comes to peak climbing in Nepal, Spring season has always traditionally been the best season for climbing. So to say Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September-November) are considered best for Climbing Himlung Himal.
Spring (March to May) has always been considered the classic peak climbing season in Nepal. This season has always been the most favorable season as it has always presented stable weather patterns and moderate temperatures.
However, recent global warming and climate change are demonstrating different weather patterns in the mountains of Nepal. The expert climbers say that climbing the windows for any peaks in Nepal is more promising in Autumn than in winter. This shift in the weather pattern and shift in the climbing window, the autumn season is attracting more mountaineers to climb peaks in Nepal.
So to say, Autumn, especially October is now considered more advantageous for the Himlung Himal Expedition. There are also records of higher summit success in the season of Autumn than in Spring in Nepal.
The month of October is said to present clear skies with excellent visibility where temperatures are generally mild offering better climbing conditions for climbers.
Himlung Himal Expedition Difficulty:
It is to be noted that, there is no such thing as an ‘Easy Mountain’ especially when it comes to climbing peaks above 6000, 7000, or 8000 meters. Easy Mountain is just a myth. In fact scaling any high-altitude mountain is physically and mentally challenging.
Similarly, Himlung Himal is 7126 meters which requires serious skills and determination. Himlung Himla Expedition is best suited for people who have prior high-altitude climbing experience and know the skills of climbing.
However, Himlung Himal is not considered a technically tricky mountain in comparison to other peaks like Ama Dablam Expedition or Pumori Expeditions. Despite being not very technical it still requires the skill of capably handling the climbing equipment. The climbing involves crossing the maze of crevasses, tackling steep snowy slopes, and climbing icy walls. Because of this, the knowledge of high-altitude climbing is very important.
For beginners, climbing any of these peaks will be a challenging decision since climbing a peak is not a hike to a hill. Himlung will surely test your physical limits and mental endurance for which willpower and consistency are a must. While climbing these peaks you will battle bone-chilling temperatures, extreme winds, technical terrain that will try to drag you down, and weeks of solitude.
You will also face the effects of High Altitude pressure, and basic facilities in tented camps where communication and health facilities are limited. Climbing Himlung Himal is certainly a serious adventure that demands respect, preparation, and a healthy dose of mountaineering experience.
Safety Measures Required for Himlung Expedition:
While undertaking any expedition with Nepal Pyramids we always say ‘there's a fine line between bravery and foolishness’ when it comes to mountain climbing. So, we request all mountaineers to Respect the mountain, know your limits, and don’t act foolish since we want you to live to climb another day.
We have a different approach while climbing mountains in Nepal and that is – ‘Climb Smart, Stay Alive’.
Safety Tips for Climbing Himlung Himal:
- Team up with a Professional Company like Nepal Pyramids and Professional Climbing Guides who know Himlung thoroughly.
- Don’t look for cheap climbing Package options because you will get what you paid for. Always analyze the includes that the company is delivering for the cost they are offering.
- Your life depends on your gear so be well-equipped with high-quality gear including your climbing equipment.
- Every climber requires an assistant while climbing high. So it is always wise to create a good team network and book with a company that provides you with personal climbing assistance all through. Never show foolish bravery and try climbing solo.
- Communication is very crucial in the mountains. Maintain rock-solid communication policy between camps. Make a prohibitive rule of “No Radio Silence Allowed”.
- Always get the necessary information on the weather forecast. Keep yourself updated since it’s the weather that will offer you a favorable climbing window. If the weather doesn’t look promising don’t push yourself further – wait.
- Always carry a comprehensive first aid kit since you will be away from the health facilities and it is limited even in the surrounding areas. For Detailed information on what medications you can pack in your first aid kit – CLICK HERE
Extra Safety Tips:
- Always look for an itinerary that sets enough ground for proper acclimatization. If you rush, you're asking for trouble.
- Be aware of the early signs and symptoms of high altitude sickness. AMS can be fatal so READ the prevention of altitude sickness in Nepal.
- Always maintain your body with adequate fluid and well-fed. In the mountains, your body burns fuel very quickly so stay hydrated and well fed.
- Learn crevasse rescue techniques which will be demonstrated in your clinical course in the Base camp by our climbing guides. It will be a life skill.
- It is very wise to carry a personal locator beacon since you never know about the uncertainly in the mountains and it could save your life
- We highly recommend leaving your detailed plans and itinerary including the contact details of the company you are joining with someone back home.
- Know when to say no - the mountains arn't going anywhere - there will always be next time.
